The Rail House Restaurant 10803….New and Delightful in Pelham
- Tuesday, 17 December 2019 11:16
- Last Updated: Tuesday, 17 December 2019 11:16
- Published: Tuesday, 17 December 2019 11:16
- Judie Dweck
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A quote from Luciano Pavarotti appears on the menu at The Rail House; ”One of the very best things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is that we are doing and devote our attention to eating. ‘’ And so I did.
Upon checking out the address of The Rail House, it seemed familiar. It has been home to Bacci, Villa Nova and Casa Amore. Its newest occupant is the charming, rustic Rail House Restaurant. It is managed by Florio Rugova, a familiar face in the Westchester world for over 30 years. I remember his professional presence at La Fontanella and Jordan Hall in Pelham. Rugova believes that a restauranteur needs to be “a people person”, gracious, understanding and with a good knowledge of the business.” He certainly fits the bill. For Rugova, the best part of the work is to see his guests leave happy. Rugova indicated that among the many restaurants in Pelham, “The Rail House is unique because of its diverse menu, its ambiance and its railroad theme. We are very proud of our product and our Italian American menu offers a little bit of everything to suit every taste. If Rugova was a guest at The Rail House, his meal might start with chicken dumplings, tuna tartar or ceviche. This would be followed by short rib, branzino or pappardelle with short rib stroganoff and his meal might end with a flute of hazelnut chocolate, mango guava or lemoncello gelato.
A black awning greets you as you enter this cozy restaurant. It has been completely redecorated in black and white tones. The main dining room, with its beamed ceiling, seats about 70 guests. Black and white railroad related photos and signs adorn the walls. The adjoining bar is roomy, as well. Upstairs, there are two party rooms for private events. They are open seven days a week. On Monday through Friday you can enjoy a happy hour from 4 to 7 PM.
We were seated at a cast iron pedestal table with the sun shining in from the window as we awaited the treasures being prepared by Chef Rolando Cordado, who has honed his skills in several high end New York City restaurants.
As we checked out the menu, warm bread and a dish of fresh ricotta, olive oil and a dip of eggplant, sun dried tomatoes and roasted peppers was presented for us to nibble on. As our dishes arrived one by one, we noted that the simple white dishes displayed each course beautifully. We started our meal with plump Maine mussels. The creamy Dijon mustard sauce enhanced the flavor of the mild tasting mussels. Thinly sliced grilled toast absorbed the flavor of the rich sauce. Chicken dumplings were pan fried and generously filled with a mild chicken filling. The won ton wrappers remained crisp. A tangy sweet chili sauce sat beside the dumplings for dipping. They were delicious and can also be prepared steamed instead of fried. I look forward to enjoying the steamed clams, with white wine and chorizo, potato gnocchi with grapes and goat cheese, and other interesting appetizers. The raw bar included clams, oysters, seafood towers, shrimp cocktail, ceviche and smoked salmon. We couldn’t resist the tuna tartar. Here, pristinely fresh ahi tuna was coarsely chopped and formed into a disc. It was topped with avocado and set on a bed of seaweed and sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds. Chili sauce completed this light and excellent starter.
With winter weather outdoors, a good entrée choice is the braised short rib. The slow low braising process produced a very tender and flavor filled dish. I never used the knife at my place setting since the meat fell apart at the mere touch of my fork. This tender cut of meat rested in a nest of mashed potatoes, surrounded by roasted Brussels sprouts. Branzino was nicely fileted and blackened for a full bodied taste. It was served atop the currently popular, healthy and tasty Brussels sprouts. This time the sprouts were shaved and tossed with mushrooms. Barolo wine and a bit of sweet mango salsa complimented the spicy blackened spices on the coating of the fish. Other creative entrees include wasabi tuna, the railroad tracks, (skewers of filet mignon, shrimp and chicken) and classics of New York strip steak, chicken scarpariello, chicken martini, paella, as well as lighter fare such as a signature burger, a salmon burger and fish tacos.
Of the pasta selections The Station, pappardelle with short rib stroganoff, and the sea linguini marinara or fra diavolo are waiting to be devoured. A massive brick pizza oven glows in the back of the dining room offering a variety of pies such as buffalo chicken, vegetable, sausage and broccoli rabe and of course Margherita. Salads here include a classic Caesar and some inventive combinations such as a Thai salad with cabbage, pine nuts and romaine dressed with a sesame ginger dressing, beet and kale with quinoa and almonds and a chopped Greek salad. Add a protein for a light but hearty meal. One of the daily specials of the day was indeed special. Our parmesan encrusted cod was divine in its simplicity. The delicate filets were lightly crusted with crumbs and parmesan. The filets surrounded a mound of freshly sautéed spinach. This combination of ingredients sat on a pool of beurre blanc studded with a small dice of tomatoes. It is clear that fish cookery is one of Chef Cordado’s many gifts.
Complete your meal with a sweet bite. A slice of cappuccino cake was rich but not too sweet and a lovely ending to our meal. Espresso infused chocolate cake layers were alternated with coffee cream and topped with a sprinkling of cocoa powder. Freshly whipped cream shared the plate. A flute of hazelnut chocolate gelato was a light conclusion, as well.
Lunch specials are offered seven days a week from 12-3 o clock with a choice of appetizer, entrée and coffee or tea.
A leisurely lunch or dinner at The Rail House offers friendly, professional service and a beautifully prepared variety of dishes. It is a fine addition to the growing restaurant scene in Pelham. The manager and host Florio Rugova makes you feel welcome at this new and charming dining venue.
The Rail House Restaurant 10803
65 First Street
Pelham, New York
https://www.therailhouse10803.com
914 365-1044