Hip and Delicious: Fortina in Armonk

Always on the prowl for new dining spots in Westchester we jumped at the chance to check out Fortina in Armonk and braved the potholes to get there. Located in a new shopping center off Route 22, the barn-like, rustic wood-paneled interior gives the impression that the restaurant has been in operation for longer than its short nine-month tenure. The large space includes a 50-foot stainless steel bar and ample seating to accommodate families and large parties. Though it's billed as a pizza place we quickly saw they had much more to offer.

The gen-X staffers are inviting and hip – and you almost feel like you are in Williamsburg rather than deep in suburbia. Our waiter's hair was wound into a top-knot and he looked adorable and was friendly and generous with advice on what to order. Chef Christian Petroni came to Fortina from Barcelona Restaurant in Greenwich and also happens to be a co-owner of Cooked & Co. in Scarsdale.

The drink selection is extensive. For wine I counted 22 whites available by the bottle (and some by the glass), ranging in price from $36 to $112 per bottle. There are draft beers, ciders, ales and beers from many countries. The cocktail selection is appealing as well –with many imaginative concoctions including unusual spirits and liquors.

While we considered the extensive menu and sipped our drinks, we munched on spicy green olives bathed in red peppers. Since we were a large party, we had the chance to order and taste a good array from Fortina's menu.

For appetizers we shared garlic bread topped with melted mozzarella and accompanied by fresh, chunky tomato sauce. That was irresistible and filling. We also ordered the fried meatballs in tomato ragu with parmesan cheese. Those were crisp on the outside, flavorful on the inside, and a meal in themselves. Salads are served in large bowls. We had the house salad with romaine, red onion, cucumber, and tomato in a crispy Italian dressing. The lettuce was crisp and crunchy and we would order that one again.

For starters, there is also a selection of salumi e formaggi – at $11 each, $19 for three or $29 for five. On the list are sweet and hot sopressata, speck, mortadella and more meats as well as fontina, pecorino, provolone, manchego, gorgonzola dolce and parmesan. I would consider going back to sit at the bar to feast on these meats and cheeses with a glass from Fortina's wine cellar.

Pizza and pasta are the restaurant's mainstays and the smell of the wood—fired pizza oven infuses the restaurant. From the pizza menu we ordered a classic margherita, "The Luigi Bianco" with burrata, robiolona, parmesan and black truffle, and a prosciutto pie with mozzarella, tomato, arugula and olives. The pizzas emerged hot from the oven and were staged atop large empty San Marzano tomato tins on the table. The crusts were bready and delectable and it was difficult not to scarf these slices down too fast. The truffle pizza – swimming with truffle oil and mushrooms was gone first – but in fact all three pizzas were delicious.

From the Primi menu, we ordered three of Fortina's pastas, each arriving in it's own ceramic casserole. All were consumed and enjoyed including the ravioli with fresh ricotta, pomodoro and basil, the "Wood-fired Paccheri – pasta and baby veal meatballs in a rich béchamel sauce, and the spicy "Pici,"baked with tomato, onion, smoked bacon and a dash of chili. For those looking for meat and fish, there's a wood-roasted half chicken, prime dry-aged beef, pork braciole and a market fish of the day. We were too busy downing carbs to try these, but since everything we had was good, I 'd have to assume these dishes would be as well.

The atmosphere was relaxed, informal and lively enough to ward off another dark winter night. Kids were busy with crayons, singles were mixing it up and people of all generations appeared to be enjoying the food and the ambiance. Prices were reasonable – with pizzas ranging from $11 to $21 and pastas at $15. Why was there a large oil painting of Bill Murray dressed up as Ernest Hemingway on the wall? You'll have to go there yourself to get the story.

So – if you can't get into Polpettina in Eastchester, hop in the car for a more spacious rendition of their menu and more. You can't go wrong on the food and you'll have a good time too!

Fortina
17 Maple Avenue
Armonk, NY
(914) 273-0900
Monday through Friday
12- 2:30 pm
Dinner starting at 5 pm
Saturday and Sunday –Dinner starting at 5 pm
Sunday Brunch 12 pm – 2:30 pm
http://www.fortinapizza.com/